Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Mtako Wowawa

Last post I promised to give ya’ll a brief about what I’m doing with my time now that I’m at Mitundu. OK, here it is. Let’s start with work:

These past few weeks I’ve been spending a lot of time on my bike sweating, getting sunburnt, and covering my khaki pants in dust while moving around the area meeting different groups and trying to get a sense of what kind of NGO and governmental assistance is already going on in the area and to find out where I can help. In this area, which I can generally call Mitundu (although the geographical scope of my work has already gone well beyond the general area of Mitundu (good thing my bike’s and I are both in good shape)), there are a handful of small, semi-competent community-based organizations (CBOs) that have the general purpose of getting funding from the government and other larger NGOs (i.e. UNICEF, Save the Children, Catholic Relief Services, etc.) and then use this funding to help orphans, elderly, and the sick in a variety of ways. Throughout the developing world, especially in sub-Saharan Africa, especially in Malawi, these CBOs have a reputation for giving, at most, half of the assistance they claim to be giving and using, at most, half of the money that has been given to them for the purposes it was intended for. It’s easy to call this corruption and theft, but I’ve come to understand that this lack of monetary efficiency (I’ll have to go into this in further detail another time, but in short…) is do to many complicated factors such as disinterest, incompetency, and laziness by the donors themselves; a culture of skimming a little money off the top since you (the worker at the CBO) are usually almost as poor as the people you intend to help; and a general disorganization and lack of understanding between all parties involved. I’ve come to realize that not all of the blame can be put on the CBOs that are “misusing” the money.

Anyhow, during my first two years here, I didn’t have a lot of exposure to these CBOs, and now I am working with them on a daily basis. So far (keep in mind that I haven’t gotten very far yet), its become clear to me that the people working at these CBOs have good intentions and most of them actually do good work, but the general issues they have include a lack of applicable experience, guidance, and knowledge in the area of development and assisting needy people. I’m clearly over generalizing here, but life (not to mention writing blog posts that can be read in less than ten minutes and don’t put your reader to sleep) is so much easier when we over generalize. What I’m trying to get at here are two things. One: I will have a difficult time here working with these people IF (notice: IF) I find that they are more interested in skimming off the top and exploiting donors than helping people and promoting development. Two: I should try to focus on helping these organizations to become more efficient, competent, and honest.

I’ve got two projects started that look as though they may actually be successful, make me proud, and put a chip in the mountain of problems that we have here. To make things easier for me, I’ll just cut and paste the “Basic Description” of my first project, Mitundu Area PLHIV Food Security Project (keep in mind that PLHIV stands for “people living with HIV” and OVC stands for “orphans and vulnerable children”):

This project was initiated by the Grace Foundation PLHIV Support Group, requesting help for funding of farming inputs to provide food security for the upcoming year. Since the initial planning stages, the project has expanded to include five other PLHIV Support Groups in the Mitundu Area.

The basic plan is to plant a total of 12 acres of land. Three quarters of the land will be planted with maize inter-cropped with beans, and the other quarter will be planted with soya beans. The maize, beans, and half of the soya beans will be divided up between the PLHIV members at harvest. The other half of the soya beans will be sold at harvest and this money will be banked to provide funding for next years crop and to provide secondary school fees for OVC.

The training/education plan will include a coordinated effort between Mitundu Youth Organization (MYO), agricultural agents, and the Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV). These PLHIV support groups are all affiliated with MYO, which is a 10-year-old CBO registered with the National Youth Council of Malawi. MYO is also the work site for the PCV responsible for this project. MYO will be responsible for assisting the PCV with field visits, assisting the PCV with communication with the PLHIV, and using these PLHIV support groups to help with community awareness and the importance of voluntary counseling and testing (VCT). There are four agricultural agents in the area, and they have agreed to help us in any way needed. We have asked them about talking to the group about sustainable farming methods and accompanying us on monthly inspections of the land that is under cultivation. The PCV will be responsible for developing a business plan with various PLHIV groups, encouraging and training the PLHIV in processes to add value to their cash crops, and providing advice, especially in the area of financial management, to ensure that this project is sustainable with no additional donations in the future.

Obviously, this is a farming community, and most of these members are farmers who know their land, the weather conditions, and how to care for crops maize, beans, and soya beans. That along with the technical help of the agricultural agents gives this project a high likelihood of success.

We are requesting VAST Grant funding of $1420.67. The PLHIV groups’ contributions of in-kind and cash have a value of $2204.00. That is a 61% community contribution. Therefore, the total budget for this project is $3624.67. The time line of this project is for the growing season of November 2010-April 2011.


Compared to most projects done by CBOs, NGOs, and the government itself, this is simple and straightforward. Early on in my service, I didn’t really like the idea of handing out money (or things that are bought with money, such as fertilizer, seeds, bags of cement, etc.) to people in this manner. In my short time here, I’ve come to realize that many (dare I say “most”) development projects (from large scale things such as USAID funding the construction of multimillion dollar highway to small scale things such as the construction of a four thousand dollar community library) never get completed, don’t get used for their intended purpose, or are so poorly managed that most of the materials get stolen or never used at all (At this point I feel like I should sincerely apologize for the negative tone of this post. I’m just letting the world know what I see here. Please keep in mind that I don’t go around cursing and yelling at everyone all day, but I am actually very happy, and I strongly believe that my presence here is having a positive effect on the people I live and work with). After seeing these things, one would assume that I am now less inclined to search for donations to do God knows what. There are plenty of things that I could do with my time that wouldn’t require funding. I could teach at the school like I have been doing the past few years. I could do sorely needed book keeping trainings for the local businesspeople. I could go around preaching about condoms, sleeping under a mosquito net, and farming without fertilizer. But I’ve put a string of ideas into my head these past few months that help me to justify what I’m doing:
1) This area is going to continue to get lots of aid money for a long time.
2) That aid money will continue to be mismanaged for a long time.
3) Bryan is awesome because he works with the beneficiaries of this aid money directly, he can kind of communicate with them in their local language, and he works his ass off.
4) This aid money will be best put to use towards projects that are managed by Bryan.
5) Therefore, Bryan should try to get his hands on some of this aid money and put it to good use.

So I’ve been riding my bike around a lot lately trying to get all of these PLHIV groups on the same page and prepared so that starting around December we can start using this fertilizer and seed to produce a lot of food. This food (if God (please pray for Him to allow these things so that I don’t look like a fool) allows the rain to fall in good amounts and in good time, keeps our fields disease and pest free, and encourages thieves to stay away from our harvest) should feed these 105 PLHIV, whom will be doing the farming, and their respective families for about half of the upcoming year. In addition to this, they will be farming their own land so HOPEFULLY (notice: HOPEFULLY) they will have more than enough food this upcoming year. A PLHIV, or anyone for that manner, has a much better standard of living when they don’t have to deal with chronic malnutrition, which most of these people and their families have been dealing with all of their lives.

The other big project that I’m working on doesn’t entail handing out money and other nice things such as fertilizer for free, but instead it is centered on loans. One of my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers has been working with a local private financing agency to give small business loans (we like to use the lingo “micro-loans”) to small groups of struggling women in rural areas. Last year they started with just a few groups, and they were very successful, with 100% payback on the loans. Due to this success, they are looking at expanding the project. I managed to talk these guys into including Mitundu in their area of expansion, they agreed, and now were getting started.

Again, they want to start small, with two groups of about 13 women each. We will start with six days of business trainings and forming cohesive groups. Then the loans will be distributed, the businesses will begin, and finally the groups will pay back the loans. Micro-loan projects such as this have been successful in the developing areas of Southeast Asia, and they’re just starting to catch on in Sub-Saharan Africa (less so in Malawi-but it’s exciting to be on the cutting edge of something). The micro-loans are centered on the idea of using social and group pressure to encourage honesty and swift repayment of the loans. Simply put, if someone in the group fails to pay back their loan, then the rest of the group has to pick up the slack. The defaulter then has to continuously deal with their own shame since the groups are formed so that all members know each other well and come from nearby communities. The loans are small (somewhere between 30 and 100 dollars) and so are the businesses they are intended to start (such as selling doughnuts, fish, or freezies at the local market). The interest on the loans is also very small (3%). The Lilongwe based company that is providing these micro-loans already makes plenty of money, and this it like a charitable side project in which they will be completely satisfied if the investment just breaks even. To be honest, I probably won’t have a large involvement in all of this once we get it going. They already have a few guys that do a great job with the training and advising of the groups, and all of the funding will come from this Malawian (for-profit) company. I just kind of encouraged them to come out here and help us, and now I just have to put the groups together and let them know that help is on the way. The guy that’s in charge of all this beams when he talks about how honest and hard working these desperately poor women are. His other “real” clients who receive the big loans are constantly late on payments and defaulting, but these women that he has just started working with seize this opportunity and don’t mess it up. Lately, he’s been hearing a lot of stories about how the women and their families didn’t have any money for food and basic needs the previous year, but since receiving the micro-loans and getting a simple, well-run business going, they have enough to get by and live respectable lives. I’m very excited about all of this, and I think it will also work well here, but time will tell.

In addition to these two big projects, I’m also working on some other stuff on the side. The volunteer that was here in Mitundu before me had to finish her service a few months early, and she was helping the local secondary school build a small science laboratory and didn’t have time to finish the project before her service ended. I offered to take things over for her, which hasn’t been a big deal since most of the work is already done. I just have to check on things a few times a week to collect receipts and make sure that stuff isn’t stolen. Plus, I’ll get to take pictures of the project when it is all done.

Perhaps you remember that girl’s hostel that I’ve been trying to get funding for since the beginning of last year. Well, I still working on that, jumping through hoops and continually landing on my face. However, I think (pray) that we’ve finally found funding so that the project can be completed in a reasonable manner. The district government has already helped us out with about a quarter of the needed materials (things such as cement, iron sheets, nails, door frames, etc.), and we agreed in a meeting last weekend that we will start construction in the next two weeks. We will start with the materials that have already been donated. It’s still on Bryan’s shoulders to find money to buy the other three quarters of what’s needed. But we’re not worried because Bryan usually pulls through.

As for the rest of my working days, I spend my time at the Youth Organization office talking with people, talking with my co-workers about other projects we want to work on in the next year, showing them how to use cool shortcuts on Microsoft Word and Excel, getting my butt kicked at chess, and writing blog posts.

Outside of work (there hasn’t actually been a lot of this time), I’m reading a lot, watching episodes of 30 Rock on my new computer (Thanks Mom. The keys get dirty a lot faster in dusty Africa so I can’t call it “new” for much longer.), working in my garden, chatting with the endless number of interesting people in Mitundu, and cooking dinner (this takes up a lot of time, time that I didn’t have to budget for when I was at Chadabwa and had someone to do it for me).

I’ll end here. Don’t be shy to tell me what you want to hear about by posting on the comments page. I do look forward to reading those, and if you don’t tell me what you want to hear I will just babble on like I have been doing for the past two years (but perhaps that hasn’t been all that bad). BTW, I still plan to be around during Xmas, and I’m excited to see you all.

"I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear." Nelson Mandela

Sunday, September 12, 2010

On the Road

I’ve been moving around a lot this past month, but I’m finally settled into my new job in a new place living in a new house. The start of last month, we had our Close of Service (COS) conference. This included all of the people that I came here with back in September 2008, or at least all of us that are still around. The general purpose of the COS conference was to prepare us for the end of our service as PCVs, more specifically to show us how to fill out all the paper work, how to find a job in the empty basket we call the US job market, and how to adjust to life back in the States where everything is available all of the time and people prefer to ignore each other. Clearly most of this stuff was irrelevant to me since I will be living as a poor but happy (not to mention employed) PCV for a little over a year now, but I still had a great time at this little get-together since it was the last time all of the people in my group will be able to get together. Also, it was at the beach with perfect weather, five meals a day (I’m counting the tea breaks as meals since the tea came with food as well, such as cheese sand witches; biscuits; cookies; banana bread; etc.~always in the all-you-can-eat style), and more than enough alcohol. We were all fat and happy, and it was certainly bittersweet. I can honestly say that I have great respect for all of the people in my group, I have become good friends with many of them, and I will miss all of them dearly (although about five of us will be extending with Peace Corps Malawi-we can’t seem to get away from each other). About half of them will be leaving for good this month of September so I think I’ll be making a few trips to the airport to see them off.

After COS conference, I went to Dedza where they were having the pre-service training for the new education and health volunteers. Altogether there are about 35 of them, and I was mostly helping out with the training of the new education volunteers for a few days. They seem to be like most groups of PCVs: diverse, eccentric people that are a bit weird, but at the same time easy to get along with and interesting to talk to. I’ll be working with them for a while so I thought it was important for us to get to know each other and start trying to remember their names (people come and go so frequently in Peace Corps that it becomes a pain to remember people’s names, I have a hard time remembering names as it is). Another thing of note was the weather. I tried to prepare for it, but it was still a shock. That time of year, early July, is the coldest in this part of the world (the southern hemisphere), and that part of the country, Dedza district up in the mountains, is one of the coldest in Malawi. It was definitely getting down into the low 40s (I actually heard that there was snow flurries the week after I left) at night. To those of you Minnesotans, this probably doesn’t seem too bad. However, keep in mind that here in Malawi none of the houses have insulation or heating. The only way to stay warm is to sit next to a smoky fire or hide under two or three blankets. I still find it hard to believe that it can get so cold this close to the equator, but at the same time, it’s nice that that is as cold as it gets and the rest of the year the climate is relatively mild and comfortable, especially the area were I live which only has a slightly lower elevation than Dedza.

From Dedza I went back home for a few days. Most people there were aware of the fact that I would be leaving soon, and it was a little awkward delaying my farewells since I had to explain that I would be leaving again soon for two weeks, coming back again for a few days, and then leaving for good. I only stayed for a few days trying to put the finishing touches on things, getting ready to leave for Mitundu a few weeks later. But first I was going back on the road, living out of a backpack.

In developing countries, an acronym that is heard a lot is IGA, which stands for income generating activity. To me, it’s really just a fancy term conjured up by donors and different development organizations for what we know as “businesses.” An IGA is a small-scale business that can be easily implemented with low start up costs and a low level of skill. A good friend of mine was putting together an IGA workshop with a group of women that he has been working with. He invited me to come up and show them how to make “village wine.” I’ve been making a lot of this wine during my two years here, and although it’s very simple to make, I do consider myself an expert at making this low-grade, poor-man’s alcohol. The basic ingredients are yeast, sugar, and any kind of fruit (or other food with a fair amount of sugar, such as honey or tomatoes). These are mixed together with the right amount of water, left to sit in a covered bucket for about a week, filtered to separate the solids from the liquid, and then the liquid is left to sit for about another week. After these two weeks, you have an alcoholic drink that we like to call wine. It’s palatable, and it gives a pretty good buzz after drinking a few cups. I’ve showed a few people in my area how to make it, and one of them is selling it at his house and making some decent money.

Anyways, I made a trip up to my buddy’s site to teach his women’s group how to make this wine. The prominent tribe in that area, the Ngoni, are known as heavy drinkers so I had their interest from the start because they knew there is a good market for the stuff. The training went well, although it took a bit longer than expected, which wasn’t really a problem because they seemed to be interested and were asking lot’s of questions. I started by going over the economics of selling the wine in the village and showing them how much more profit it can generate compared to the other “beers” that are made in the area, and then I demonstrated the steps of making the wine. At the end, we all enjoyed some samples of wine, but they complained that there was more wine in the bucket to be drunk. I had to be honest with them and say that was the entertainment for the upcoming evening. Another buddy of mine showed up with another IGA, soap making, which he demonstrated that afternoon. That was about all we had time for, and the next morning we cut up the soap after allowing it to set overnight. Then we were out of there that same morning. Even though I’m not sure that any of them will start making and selling wine, I did enjoy going up there and hanging out. I also had a chance to visit an orphan care center that they are working with in the area, and I’m looking into implementing some of their ideas into the new work that I’m doing with the Youth Center.

After the IGA workshop, I was on the road again, heading to Camp Sky 2010. As you may recall, I was the director of last year’s version of the camp, and I was excited to help out again this year. This year I had a different role. I was in charge of the Junior Counselors (JCs). The JCs were students that went to the camp last year, and we selected based upon their leadership skills and their performance in the classroom. I was working with eight of them, all very bright and fun to be around. They had two main responsibilities: 1)Act as a sort of bridge between the PCV teachers at the camp and the 75 first years campers by organizing and keeping those students in line and basically just setting a good example, 2)Participate in tertiary education and career guidance activities while the other students were in their morning classes. All of the JCs had just finished their national secondary school exams. Being the “cream of the crop,” they have a decent chance of getting into a college/university or getting on some kind of career path that won’t lead them back to the village and the difficult background they are coming from. The problem these kids have, a problem that is common to most students in Malawi, especially those going to schools in rural areas, is that they don’t receive good advice about how to apply for, finance, and be accepted for tertiary education (i.e. colleges, universities, technical schools, etc.). If you ask a boy in secondary school what kind of job he wants after finishing school he’s most likely to answer doctor, policeman, driver, soldier, or lawyer, and if you ask a girl she is most likely to answer nurse or maybe accountant. Unfortunately, most of these students have no idea what these various careers actually entail nor do they have a good understanding about what kind of education these careers require or how get that education. With these JCs, I wanted to enlighten them about some of this stuff, and try to get them to put some sort of a plan together about what they want to do with their lives and how they are going to do it. We worked a lot on leadership skills, public speaking, resume writing, job interview skills, and goal setting. I also tried to give them access to facts about what is actually required to get the different jobs they are interested in.
I enjoyed working with them a lot, and I’m hoping to hear in the next year that a few of them have actually been admitted to university with reliable funding available to them. I won’t say too much about the rest of the camp, but it was a lot of fun hanging out with other volunteers and the kids and also doing something productive at the same time.

Camp Sky lasted for about two weeks, and then I headed back to Chadabwa. Again, I was only there for a few days, scrambling to get ready to move before the new volunteer arrived, saying goodbye to everyone, grading the exams from the previous year at school, and trying (but failing) to wrap up some side projects that I was working on. I was a little hectic, but everything worked out OK. The goodbyes weren’t too emotional because I was only moving 17km to the west, and I promised that I will be coming back to visit frequently (I’ve already been back twice). Moving day went smoothly. Peace Corps helped me move all my junk, and I didn’t break or loose anything (as far as I can tell). I lead a fairly simple life here, but I was still surprised by how much junk I’ve accumulated while at Chadabwa. It felt good to get rid of some of that crap or at least reorganize it.

Since two Thursdays ago, I’ve been living at Mitundu, working with Mitundu Youth Organization. You can read my previous post to get a general idea of what I’m doing here and what my living situation is like, and I will give you more details about all this in the future. This is an exciting place to live. There’s always lots of stuff going on, lots of noise, lots of people, and also lots of problems. It’s refreshing to be doing something other than teaching (I’m not saying that I didn’t enjoy teaching, I really did a majority of the time, but what I am saying is that I enjoy change and having to deal with new situations).

I’ll have a new Macbook this weekend (thanks Mom!), and it looks like I’ll probably have internet access here in Mitundu or at a place nearby. Therefore, I should be able to write on here more often. I’ll end things here, and explain the exciting stuff we’re doing here in the next few weeks.